If I’m planning to work at the thing on say Saturday I will do this each evening from Wednesday. If you can heat the item normally by running the engine or taking it for a run do so and as soon as your back spray liberally with release oil of your choice and let it cool completely, overnight if possible. Cheap sockets or wrenches make rounded corners almost certain. Firstly make sure your tools are a good, tight fit on the fastener. Also, removing the line just lets more air into the sytem that you have to bleed out later.I’ve spent a lifetime fixing, restoring and repairing old cars, bikes and tractors and corroded in bolts and studs are a constant pain. Same amount of work either way, but IMO I'd rather remove the bracket than risk stripping out/weakening the brake line to caliper connection by removing/re-installing repeatedly. I assume LC and Dous are removing the brake line from the caliper instead. It gives you some slack in the line to get the caliper off without disconnecting the brake line. If so, I always remove that bracket when I have to pull the rotors. The bracket you're talking about is the one in the upper LH corner of the pic below right? I didn't have a tap to fit the hole or time to go get one, and the bolt is holding just fine. I drilled mine out and put a slightly smaller bolt through the hole with a nut/lock washer on the other side. I broke mine off when I did my brakes on the '97 (it's got a good amount of rust). Also they were very noisy when cold.Īs far as the bolt on that bracket holding the line to the spindle. Maybe consider throwing some paint on 'em.Īlso, those EBC Ultimax are SUPER DUSTY! I put those on the Supra during the brake job I mentioned above and they would cover the wheels in dust within a week. They actually looked pretty nasty behind the wheels. I put them on my Supra a while back and they were covered in rust after just a damp night. I'm so jealous of you SW guys who don't have to deal with stuff like this!įirst as LittleCeasar said, those Brembos are good rotors but the top hats get rusty QUICK. I definitely need to flush and bleed the brakes though.after I tackle the drums. I guess I'm lucky the caliper bolts didn't snap off while removing them.Īnyway, Everything went back together fine, and I used anti-seize on the pad pins. Damn rust and corrosion! It makes working on this truck such a pain in the ass. Took about 2 hours to get the passenger side top pin out (the bottom came out relatively easily), and about 1/2 hour to get each of the driver side pins out. I bent a few drifts (cheapos), and ended up improvising with some same-size hardened bolts to use as drifts. I had to soak them in Blaster many times, while bashing them in and out with a big hammer and drift. Any suggestions for getting these out? Just drill?Īlso, I had some pretty major trouble with the brake pad pins not wanting to come out. Not sure when I'll get back to that.but the zip ties seem to be holding just fine. I didn't feel like drilling them out, so I just left them, and zip-tied the brackets back to the spindle after I was done. I tried turning that with a vise grips, but of course neither one budged. There is about 1/4" of threads sticking out the back side. While trying to remove the bracket that holds the brake line to the spindle, the bolt on both sides snapped off. I had a free day yesterday, so I got it done.but not without some trouble (of course.because these things never go as planned). I've been sitting on new Brembo (OEM replacement) rotors and EBC Ultimax pads for a few months now.
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